DIY Tiling
All About Grouts & Adhesives
At Beaumonts, we’re here to help ensure your project not only looks amazing but is fit for purpose. With our range of quality grout and adhesives, your project will go from wow to WOW!
Our tiling experts are always happy to recommend the best adhesive and grout types & colours to ensure you get it right because when you’re thrilled with your new space, we’re thrilled too. Everything you need to know is right here.
In this section, we help you choose the best type of grout and grout colour for your project.
Click on any topic below and we’ll take you directly to our tips. Come back to this index at any time if you need more information.
| Choosing the right adhesive | When you start a DIY tiling job you will naturally want the best tiles, but what's underneath is equally as important. |
| Adhesive types | The tile and substrate will have different characteristics such as porosity, moisture absorption, thermal expansion, along the conditions in the area. These will determine the most suitable adhesive. |
| All about epoxy adhesive | Epoxy adhesives are suitable for particularly demanding applications. Our guide to adhesive types has more information. |
| Adhesive for natural stone | Natural stone is more absorbent than porcelain tile so moisture is absorbed from the adhesive into the stone, darkening the colour. |
| How to apply adhesive with a notched trowel | By using a notched trowel, the adhesive is applied in an even thickness across the area to be tiled. |
| What is grout? | Grout plays both a functional and decorative element to any tiling job. |
| Different grout types | The right grout for the right job is the final decision you'll need to make. Familiarise yourself with cement-based, sanded, and unsanded epoxy grout here. |
| Choosing a grout type | When it comes to choosing grout, always opt for a flexible, mould resistant grout. Grouts are available in a wide range of colours to match, complement or contrast any tile. |
| Choosing a grout colour | Grout comes in so many shades of colour these days. Will you choose to make a statement with a grout colour that POPS, or keep it camouflaged with a matching colour to your tile? The choice is yours! |
| Grout width & tile spacers | Know your width and ensure your grout lines remain straight and even with spacers. |
| How to mix cement-based grout | While we always recommend following the manufacturer's instructions, follow our generic guide to successfully mix cement-based grout. |
| How to mix epoxy grout | While we always recommend following the manufacturer's instructions, follow our generic guide to successfully mix epoxy grout. |
| How to grout tiles | Grouting isn't hard when you follow our simple step-by-step instructions for a professional-looking job. |
There are so many variables when it comes to selecting the right adhesive. Are you tiling floors or walls? What size are the tiles? Are you tiling inside or outdoors? What will the tiles be fixed onto? For this reason, it is tricky to provide a one size fits all recommendation. As Beaumont Tiles has a huge range of adhesives to suit all tile types, just ask your local in-store experts, and they'll provide you with the best product for your tiling job.
Our Hot Tip: Every product we sell has a Technical Data Sheet, double-check your chosen product's Data Sheet for detailed information to ensure it's the perfect fit for your project.
Which Tile Adhesive Is Best For My Reno?
When you start a DIY tiling job you will naturally want the best tiles, but what’s underneath is equally as important. Choose the right tiling system, including the underlay and the adhesive for the perfect match.
The easiest way to know if you're selecting the right adhesive is by a quick phone call to your local store. There are three main things to take into consideration when choosing the best adhesive for your DIY tiling project:
- What surface are you tiling over?
- What type of tile have you chosen and how big are they?
- What kind of area are you tiling? Internal wall or floor, external wall or floor? This could include local conditions such as, is it a wet area, outdoor area, or heavy traffic areas like an entryway or carport?
These are all important questions to know the answers to when speaking to your Beaumont Tiles consultant or when buying your adhesives. When we are called out to see a problem job, it is almost inevitably a laying problem, and the most common is due to the use of the wrong adhesive. This is the time to remember that a quality adhesive is best, that’s why our suppliers are the best in the business and back their products with performance guarantees.
It’s super easy to drop into one of our stores or call us, and we will run through your job and we’ll give you our best advice for your project, BUT, if you are trying to make your selections on your own, here’s some more technical stuff you need to know, but keep us on speed dial - we’re here to help.
Our Hot Tip: Always use the best adhesive you can. It is only a small cost in the entire job, but it could make or break it. See our range here.
Adhesive Types
There are many different substrates (that’s the term for the surfaces that we tile over) and different types of tiles so it’s vital that the correct adhesive is chosen to ensure your tiles stay in place for years to come. The tile and substrate will have different characteristics such as porosity, moisture absorption, thermal expansion, as well as the conditions in the area. These will determine the most suitable adhesive.
There is an international standard for tile adhesives. It’s a bit technical but the table on the right will help your understanding of the types of adhesives and characteristics.
Firstly, all tile adhesives are classified as one of three types: [C] Cementitious (the most common type), [D] Dispersion (Mastics) or [R] Reaction (epoxy types for example).
Each adhesive type can have additional performance characteristics such as [1] Normal adhesive (standard strength) or [2] Improved (stronger for heavy-duty commercial areas).
They can also have special characteristics such as [F] Fast setting (drying quicker), [T] Slip-resistant (so wall tiles don’t slip while installing), [E] Extended open time (the adhesive is slower to skin over), [S] Special deformable characteristic (for cementitious adhesives only), either [S1] flexible, or [S2] highly flexible.
As the name suggests, cement-based adhesives are mixtures of cement, fine sand and compounds that allow the cement to properly hydrate. They are the most commonly used type of adhesive, working well in the recommended thin layer, and providing structural support so that minor adjustments in height can be made.
The advantages of cement-based adhesives are that they can be used in areas where there may be moisture present. While they are not waterproof, they are not water-soluble. When moisture is present, the adhesive will not return to a liquefied state as for example a traditional mastic might. Cement-based adhesives are inorganic so will not sustain or be a source for any mould growth.
Mastic adhesives are organic glues made from the natural sticky resin of the mastic tree. They are suitable for use in dry areas like a study or home office wall, have superior holding strength while tiling, and are generally easy to apply. Do not use mastic in high-moisture areas.
Epoxy adhesives are suitable for particularly demanding applications such as adhering certain types of moisture-sensitive natural stone, adhering tiles to house or building facades within building code or manufacturer’s guidelines. Epoxy adhesives are used in areas where strong chemicals are present such as commercial kitchens, food and beverage manufacturing areas and swimming pools.
If you are using underfloor heating, or if the tile is exposed to a lot of direct sunlight, it is important to use an adhesive with flexible characteristics and make sure you include adequate expansion joints. Every job is different so check our range online or speak to your local Beaumont Tiles store for the best adhesive for your project.
Our Hot Tip: It is often a good approach to select the adhesive and the other installation materials such as primers, membranes or waterproofing from the same manufacturer to ensure the products are fully compatible.
When & How To Use An Epoxy Adhesive
Epoxy adhesives are suitable for particularly demanding applications where strong chemicals may be present, in commercial kitchens, for immersed tiled areas, and for certain moisture sensitive natural stones. Our guide to adhesive types has more information.
While you should follow all the instructions from the adhesive manufacturer, the following is a general guide to:
How to successfully mix epoxy adhesives:
- Follow all the manufacturer’s instructions on the packaging.
- Epoxy adhesives typically come in two parts: Part A, which consists of an epoxy resin mixture, and Part B, which is the hardener.
- Information and calculations for the adhesive coverage should be on the packaging. Calculate how much adhesive will be needed and only mix the amount you can apply within the recommended time, generally around 30 minutes.
- Combine the recommended proportions of both parts A and B. Do not alter the proportions and do not add any other ingredient that may disrupt the epoxy’s integrity.
- Mix using a mechanical stirrer (a mixing drill with paddle attachment) at a slow speed until thoroughly combined. Scrape down the sides of the bucket as needed to ensure all parts are fully incorporated.
- Do not overmix or mix too quickly. Doing so can create air bubbles.
- Once the parts are completely combined, use immediately. Follow the manufacturer’s guide but generally, you will have approximately 30 to 60 minutes to work with the epoxy. The air temperature will affect working and curing time. The optimum temperature is around 20°C. Cooler temperatures will extend epoxy’s curing time, while higher temperatures will significantly shorten the epoxy’s working time. Do not use below 10°C or above 30°C.
Adhesive For Natural Stone
Our preferred method for fixing natural stone is onto a concrete slab floor or outdoor patio with a cement-based, flexible adhesive that is specifically recommended for installing natural stone. See in store for our expert recommendations. Always use a white or light colour adhesive for light-coloured and white stones to avoid significant discolouration of the stone.
Natural stone is more absorbent than porcelain tile so moisture is absorbed from the adhesive into the stone, darkening the colour. While some stones are specifically described as moisture sensitive and require special fast-setting adhesives, as a general rule with natural stone, the faster the adhesive sets, the better. This will minimise moisture absorbed and assist in drying out the stone fully before grouting with minimal discolouration or curling.
Our Hot Tip: Always refer to the manufacturer’s guidelines when using adhesives.
How To Apply An Adhesive With A Notched Trowel?
By using a notched trowel, the adhesive is applied in an even thickness across the area to be tiled. The notches leave small ridges of adhesive on the surface. Once the tiles are "bedded" into place these notches should flatten out to leave a flatbed of adhesive that is around half the original ridge thickness.
The size of the notches on the trowel is determined by the size of the tile. The table on the right outline the recommended sizes according to Australian Standard.
Step 1 If you are applying adhesive to a wall, cover the floor to protect from any falling adhesive.
Step 2 Use a small trowel (gauging trowel) to apply the adhesive from the bucket to the notched trowel. Spread the adhesive on the surface then use the notched edge to spread the adhesive to an even thickness. The notched trowel should be held at an angle of 45 degrees to the surface.
Do not hold the trowel at a very shallow angle or there will not be sufficient thickness of adhesive deposited.
If you are applying adhesive to a wall, the ribs should all run in a horizontal direction. This impedes water travel if it becomes wet behind the tiling.
Do not tile in extreme weather conditions and follow the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions.
Our Hot Tip: If the temperature is very warm, only spread enough adhesive that you can cover with tiles before the adhesive starts to skin.
Trowel Size Guidance Depending on Nominal Tile Size
| Nominal tile size (max. size of any side in mm) | Trowel Size (mm) | Back buttering |
| Mosaic (max 70 mm) | 3-6 | Unnecessary |
| 100 | 8 | Unnecessary |
| 200 | 10 | Unnecessary for flat-backed tiles |
| 300 | 12 | Optional |
| 400 | 12 | Necessary |
| 600 | 12 - 15 | Necessary |
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NOTE 1 - The adhesive manufacturer's specifications may stipulate different trowel sizes and back buttering requirements. NOTE 2 - Trowels wear over time and lose their notch depth. They should be maintained in good condition. |
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What Is Grout?
Grout plays both a functional and decorative role in any tiling job. Grout’s main role is to seal the joints between tiles and help keep the tiles in place and to keep them nicely and evenly aligned. Grout is also more compressible than a tile to accommodate any movement in the substrate. In a nutshell, it fills the slim lines between tiles, helps hold your tiles in place and prevents water penetration. The colour you choose is completely up to you and will make a big difference to the final look of your new space.
Different Grout Types
There are two types of grout; cement-based and resin-based (epoxy grouts).
Cement-Based Grout
The cement-based grouts are the most commonly used and often have added characteristics. Cement-based grout is generally a mixture of cement, water, sand and sometimes polymers or other materials that help improve its performance and durability.
Cement grout can be improved with the addition of latex polymers which are either supplied pre-mixed into the grout powder or added separately as a liquid during mixing. The addition of the latex increases the water resistance and flexibility of the grout.
One key benefit is the large range of grout colours to choose from.
Sanded Grout
Sanded grout is, as the title suggests, normal cement-based grout which contains aggregate sand. The sand makes the grout much more durable than unsanded grout and reduces the risk of shrinkage normally associated with cement.
Exterior tiling typically has wider grout joints. There are specific grouts made to suit wider joints that contain more coarse aggregate sand to prevent cracks or shrinkage.
Unsanded Grout
Unsanded grout is smoother and easy to work with. It is cement-based and uses superfine particles rather than regular sand in the mix. Unsanded grout is typically used when the tile has a high gloss surface, metallic glaze or delicate surface effect or with a polished marble or soft limestone where the sand could act as an abrasive (like sandpaper) on the surface. Unsanded grout can shrink or pull away from tiles if the grout joint is very wide. It is ideal for narrow and normal width grout joints.
Epoxy Grout
Epoxy grout is made from a mixture of resins, colourant and hardener. They are impervious to water and resistant to most stains and efflorescence, making them ideal for kitchens, splashbacks, floors and high traffic areas. The stain-proof nature, chemical resistance and durability see epoxy grout used in commercial installations with harsh chemicals or liquid contaminants.
Epoxy grout will not discolour, crack or stain. It also does not need to be sealed. This makes it an ideal choice if you have a white or light-coloured floor and want a white or light-coloured grout. Epoxy grout is more difficult to apply than cement-based grout as it sets quickly, meaning that grouting must normally be done in sections. Once the epoxy begins to dry it is difficult to remove. Any epoxy grout that dries on the surface will have a glossy finish so must be completely removed. Porous surfaces will absorb epoxy and may discolour so care must be taken, especially with natural stone. Any porous material must be sealed before grouting. Epoxy grout will dry to more of a sheen than traditional cement-based grouts.
Epoxy grouts will perform better over time requiring less maintenance but are more difficult to use during the installation and not something that a novice to tiling should attempt the first time. They also cost considerably more than cement-based grouts.
Our Hot Tip: Grout is available in a wide range of colours to complement or contrast with your tile. If you are unsure about your grout joints or it's your first time tiling, choose a grout colour that is closer to the tile colour to give a uniform overall appearance.
Choosing A Grout Type
As a guide, we normally recommend one of our large range of colours in cement-based grout which can be used in any room. If you want a more non-staining, non-efflorescence grout, we suggest using one of our epoxy grouts that are available in different colours.
Epoxy grout is ideal for use in areas where tiles will be repeatedly wet and exposed to a lot of traffic such as bathroom walls and floors, in kitchens, main floors and food preparation areas (epoxy grout is used in commercial kitchens) and anywhere that efflorescence could be a problem.
When it comes to choosing grout, always opt for a flexible, mould resistant grout. Grouts are available in a wide range of colours to match, complement or contrast any tile. This is definitely something you should think about if you have a great kitchen splashback idea you want to showcase.
Just remember that if your grout is over 8mm, you will need a cement-based grout suitable for wide joints.
We recommend sealing all grout once the tile installation is completed. Grout sealing will improve water resistance and stain resistance and make general maintenance easier.
What Grout Colour Should I Use?
Grout comes in so many colour shades and we love grout's ability to completely elevate a tiling job. Will you choose to make a statement with a grout colour that POPS, or keep it subtle and camouflaged with a matching colour to your tile? The choice is yours!
Special care should be taken when selecting a grout colour for marble and natural stone and any special effect tiles. Natural stone and unglazed materials that have a higher moisture absorption can absorb colour from the grout during installation. Neutral grout colour is recommended with natural stone.
Here are some of our expert tips to help you when choosing your grout colour:
- Want to go BOLD? Choose a fun tile laying pattern paired with a contrasting grout colour.
- Keeping things subtle? Choose a grout colour that's a shade or two lighter than your tile.
- Grouting colourful mosaics? Choose a contrasting grout colour to show off the beautiful shape and colour and if your mosaic runs down a wall to meet a floor tile, consider running the same grout colour through the two for a stronger connection between the two surfaces.
- When choosing your grout colour for dark floor tiles (hello timber-look, concrete-look and stone-look), find the darkest hues in the tile and choose a grout colour to match for a seamless look.
- HAVE FUN! Use the opportunity as an outlet to be creative and create a look that's uniquely you.
- Quality matters! Make sure you choose a high-quality grout to ensure the longevity of your grout.
Our Hot Tip: Speak to our in-store or online experts for advice on the type and colour of grout you should choose for your project and style.
Grout Colour Tip & Tricks
Find out what's trending in grout colours and some handy tips for choosing the right grout colour for your project.
Grout Width & Tile Spacers
Grout spacers are a fantastic way to ensure your grout lines remain straight and even. Grout spacers are available in different sizes from 1.5mm, 2mm and 3mm width joints and are all available at your local Beaumont store.
Grout spacers are not embedded in the grouting but are placed with one arm placed in the gap between the tiles during installation to consistently space each tile and ensure gaps remain constant until the adhesive sets. All the spacers must be removed once the tile adhesive has dried and before grouting.
We usually recommend a grout width of around 3mm for pressed edge floor tiles and no less than 1.5mm for wall tiles. Outdoor, terracotta and quarry tiles will typically have wider joints. The Australian Standard AS3958-2023 recommends that extruded tiles should have grout joints of 6mm.
Some rectified porcelain floor tiles and natural stone can be laid with narrow joints of 1.5mm to 2mm but will generally be installed with a tile levelling system to ensure there is no lippage and the tile surfaces remain flat and level. Tile levelling systems are available in different sizes and will also act as tile spacers. Care must be taken when grouting a tile installed with narrow joints to ensure that the grout penetrates and fills the joint spaces fully.
The grout line width must allow for any slight variance in the size of the tile. All clays shrink slightly when fired so there can be small differences from tile to tile. A larger tile may have a slightly larger variation if it is not rectified. Small differences in size will be highlighted if the grout joint is narrow as will any lippage if one tile sits slightly higher than the next. This is why we recommend using a tile levelling system for professional results, especially with narrower grout joints. If you use the same floor tile also on the wall, the grout width should be kept the same as the floor.
When narrow joints are used, ensure a flexible adhesive is used and importantly that there are appropriate movement joints incorporated at recommended intervals and wherever the tiles meet an adjoining surface.
Our Hot Tip: Our experts have created a handy DIY guide that will be your best friend throughout your DIY journey - DOWNLOAD IT HERE.
How To Successfully Mix Cement-Based Grout
While we always recommend following the manufacturer's instructions, the following is a general guide to successfully mix cement-based grout:
- Follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the packaging.
- Mix the grout in a clean bucket with clean water.
- Following the guide on the packaging, place the amount of grout powder you require in the bucket.
- If the grout you are using does not already contain a flexible grout additive, you may want to add it at this point along with the water to make up the total recommended amount of liquid.
- Mix the grout using a trowel or a mechanical stirrer (a mixing drill with paddle attachment). Use a slow speed setting on a mixing drill to avoid excess air bubbles in the grout.
- Stir the grout mixture into a thick paste that contains no dry lumps. Scrape the sides and ensure you mix the bottom corners of the bucket.
- Use a clean sponge to drip in the extra water, taking care to not make it too watery. The correct consistency is like toothpaste or smooth peanut butter. It should not drip from the mixer or trowel when lifted. If it is too watery, add a little more grout powder and mix in well.
- Leave the grout to stand for the recommended time - usually around 5 to 10 minutes to strengthen, and then briefly remix to loosen it up and apply it immediately.
NOTE: The grout will harden in 30 to 60 minutes, you cannot add more water after it has been mixed and left.
Our Hot Tip: Investing in epoxy grout is well worth it! It won’t crack, shrink or discolour making it a perfect match with a bathroom, high traffic or wet area. A BIG bonus, unlike other grout types, epoxy doesn’t need to be sealed as it’s non-porous!
How To Successfully Mix Epoxy Grout
While we always recommend following the manufacturer's instructions, the following is a general guide to successfully mix epoxy grout:
- Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully on the packaging.
- Epoxy grout typically comes in two parts: Part A, which consists of an epoxy resin mixture and Part B, which is the hardener. In some cases, there may also be a Part C which is the colourant or filler.
- Information and calculations for the grout coverage should be on the packaging. Calculate how much grout will be needed and only mix the amount you can apply within 30 minutes.
- Combine the recommended proportions of both parts A and B. Do not alter the proportions. Do not add water, a solvent or any other ingredient, as it may disrupt the epoxy’s integrity.
- Mix using a mechanical stirrer (a mixing drill with paddle attachment shown in the image on the right) at a slow speed until thoroughly combined. Scrape down sides of the bucket as needed to ensure all parts are fully incorporated.
- Do not overmix or mix too quickly as doing so can create air bubbles.
- Once the parts are completely combined, use the grout immediately. You will have approximately 30 to 60 minutes to work with the epoxy.
NOTE: The air temperature will affect working and curing time. The optimum temperature is around 20°C. Cooler temperatures will extend epoxy’s curing time, while higher temperatures will significantly shorten the epoxy’s working time. Do not use below 10°C or above 30°C.
How To Grout & Silicone
Listen to the hot tips from our tiler mates.
How To Grout Tiles
Grouting isn’t hard when you follow our simple step-by-step instructions for a professional-looking job.
While tiles themselves are impervious to water, moisture would still be able to make its way under or behind them unless the gaps between tiles are sealed with the right grout. Grouting your tiles also helps to strengthen the whole installation.
Follow our simple steps:
Step 1 You can grout your tiles after your adhesive has completely dried. This is normally 24 hours with normal adhesive but may be longer in cold areas or when tiling over a waterproofing membrane.
Step 2 Before beginning, remove all grout spacers or protruding levelling system components. Carefully remove any excess adhesive that may have filled the space between the tiles.
Step 3 Mix the flexible grout to the consistency of a thick creamy paste following the manufacturer’s instructions. Dampen (not wet) the joints with clean water before grouting to ensure correct curing.
Step 4 Apply the grout to the wall or floor with a rubber grouter using a driving diagonal motion, pushing the grout firmly into the joints leaving no air pockets or voids. Don’t worry about only grouting individual joints, just go over the whole surface. Do not apply the grout to the corners where walls meet floors or where two walls meet. This will be a movement joint that you will need to fill with silicone later. Leave as little grout on the surface of the tiles as possible. A handy hint is to start in a small section until you're confident.
Step 5 Allow the grout to dry and for a film to form on the face of the tiles. This should take about an hour. If you clean too soon before the grout has a chance to dry, you risk removing grout from the joints. Once the grout has become slightly powdery on the surface, remove the excess grout on the tiles with a clean, damp sponge by wiping across the tile diagonally to the joint. Turn the sponge over and repeat. Rinse and squeeze and keep repeating. Do not wash or overly wet the surface. The trick is to lift the film without wetting the actual grouted joint. Make sure that you wipe on a 45-degree angle and keep rinsing and squeezing out the sponge in clean water as you go.
Step 6 After most of the grout has been removed from the tiles, allow the tiles to dry until a slight haze appears on the tile surface. Give them another once-over with the damp sponge. Then carefully buff over the tiles with clean, dry cloths and a doodlebug. Do not allow grout haze to dry and set on the tile surface.
Step 7 Once the tiles are completely clean, we recommend applying a grout sealer to increase water resistance and for easier maintenance.
How To Clean Grout & Grout Haze
Baz from The Living Room gives us a quick demo on how to clean grout off of your tiles.
Our Hot Tip: To learn more information about why grout is important for your tiles, read our What is Grout section. Luckily, grouting is one of the simplest parts of DIY tiling. There’s no secret to grouting, all you need to do is put in a little effort.
