Wall tiles

Ceramic tiles can be loaded over virtually any level, firm rigid surface e.g. plaster, cement render, fibre cement sheet, plasterboard, even surfaces like metal, old tiles and wood can be tiled over using the correct adhesive. If you are not sure, ask a Beaumont Tiles Consultant.

It is not advisable to tile over fibreglass.

If you plan to tile over plaster or cement render, patch any small irregularities with one of the many excellent fillers available for this purpose. If the wall is really rough, it will probably be worth lining it with fibre cement sheeting. To do this, simply plug and screw 45mm x 19mm battens to the wall at intervals recommended by the fibre cement sheet manufacturer. Make sure that each batten is vertical and level by packing behind the batten until your spirit level shows it is just right. Then simply fix the fibre cement sheeting on, in accordance with the Manufacturer"s instructions.

To tile over this, just follow the directions for the particular adhesive you are using. Prime the surface using ABA Primer.

Tiling over painted surfaces

Remove loose or flaking paint. Thoroughly remove water based paint. Do not use paint stripper as residue may act as a releasing agent. Oil based paint must be sound. Roughen surface by mechanical means. Allow surface to dry after cleaning.

Never tile over a wallpapered surface or one with any other surface which may separate from the base wall.

Remember, the finished job is only as good as the surface beneath.

Establishing a base level and setting out

By using your spirit level, determine the lowest point of the floor against any wall, usually one of the shower walls. Measure up one tile from this point, then fix your batten to the wall about 20mm below this spot, making sure it is horizontal by means of the level. Continue this right around the wall. When the adhesive is set, this batten can be removed. After the floor tiles have been laid, this last row is filling in. Almost every tile in this row is cut to allow for the gradient of the floor.

If you are starting part way up a wall, e.g. above a bath, determine a starting point by measuring up from the base batten with tiles and fix another batten horizontally to the wall.

Before you commit yourself to a horizontal level, it is not a bad idea to mark around the wall where each horizontal tile joint will go and if you find it is going to be necessary to have unsightly small cuts in any places, e.g. above the bath or vanity, you can adjust the level to avoid this. It may mean a little extra cutting around the bottom row, but is worthwhile.

The golden rule is, try as much as possible to avoid small pieces of tile or try not to make them obvious.

The same basic idea applies to the vertical lines of your job. Try to minimised any small cuts. Basically however, it is best to start with a centre line and mark along your wall where each vertical joint will occur.

From this you can ensure there are not going to be any small cuts on either end, up the edge of a window or at the end of a bath. To make this setting out easier use your measuring rod, marked with the interval between each tile and move it across the wall until you can see the best layout achieved.

The walls of most houses are rarely perfectly vertical, so to ensure your tiling is at right angles to the base, use your plumb bob to make a vertical line to follow. Remember, if you start against the wall with a full tile at the base, the lean on the side wall can mean you will be filling in several centimetres of tile at the top, so arrange your layout so this does not occur.

When tiling around windows, keep your return tiles in line with the rest of the wall tiles and your cuts to the back. Special tiling trim mouldings are an excellent way of hiding these external corners. These are available in metal and PVC in a full range of colours.

We cannot emphasise too strongly the need for setting out your job properly. Be prepared to give a few hours thought and experimentation with dry tiles before starting your job, as it will determine very greatly the finished look of your job.

Fixing the tiles

At last, after your careful selecting, purchasing and laying out of your tiles, you are ready to go! We will not be going into the different adhesives at this stage, so suffice to say, you MUST follow precisely the directions on the can or packet to achieve the results. The most important things to remember with laying are simply to keep your lines straight and ensure you are getting total adhesive coverage!

Always start tiling at the bottom, keeping to the vertical line (you can even use a vertical batten if you prefer). Apply your adhesive with horizontal strokes with a special notched spreader or trowel. It is important you do not use a spreader designed for anything other than ceramic tile laying as the notches may be the wrong size. Use the size of notched spreader recommended on the adhesive you are using. Spread about 1 sq.m at a time pressing the tiles firmly into the ribs of the adhesive. Check your levels every few rows with a spirit level and wipe away any excess adhesive which squeezes onto the tile with a damp cloth. Any cut tiles can have the adhesive "buttered" on the back to make them easier to place. Every so often, it is a good idea to pull a tile off to ensure you are getting complete coverage.

Some tiles have spacer lugs "built-in" to ensure the correct space is left between each tile. Most imported tiles do not have these, so a simple solution is to use plastic spacers (which are removed before grouting) to keep a constant joint size.

With cut tiles, ensure you place them so the uncut edge is adjacent to the other tiles. If you are using a patterned tile, as far as possible, try to arrange your cuts so the adjacent cut on the wall is at right angles, giving the appearance of the pattern running on around the corner, This is not always possible, but improves the finished appearance of the job where it can be used.

Allow expansion joints in wall tiling at (internal) vertical corners and fill with flexible jointing material available from Beaumont Tiles. In large floor areas if you are tiling more than 5 lineal metres, you should incorporate expansion joints. Please refer to one of our Consultants for more information on this subject.

Cutting tiles the simple way

This is one of the simplest parts of the job and yet one which people have least confidence about. A normal straight cut is made by marking the tile with a thin felt pen where it is to be cut, then scribing across that line with a wheel of the scriber/breaker. Then simply break the tile with the jaws of the tool.

If only a very small amount is to be cut off the tile, scribe as normal, but then with very small nibbles, nip the rest of the tile away. The big thing is, use small bites.

It is possible to cut a hole in the centre of a tile using various methods with various degrees of success. Beaumont Tiles have found the best method for the handyman is to use the carborundum rod saw blade by drilling a hole with a masonry bit and using the rod saw blade as a fret saw. Otherwise an angle grinder with a diamond or carborundum wheel can be used.

Whenever you cut with nippers, it is a good idea to tidy up the edges with a carborundum file or stone. Some harder tiles are more difficult to cut, therefore Beaumont Tiles have tile cutting machines available for hire to make even these tiles easy to cut.

Most Beaumont Outlets have a diamond cutting service available for tricky cuts.

Grouting

You can grout your tiles after the adhesive has dried. This usually takes 24 to 36 hours.

Before beginning, dampen (not wet) the joints with clean water prior to application of grout to ensure correct curing.

Mix the flexible grout into a thick creamy consistency and apply to the wall with a rubber grouter using a driving diagonal motion, pushing the grouting into the joints. Don"t worry about individual joints, just go over the whole job. Leave as little grout on the surface of the tiles as possible.

Remove the excess grout from tiles and restrict clean-up to small areas at a time.

Allow grout to become slighty powdery, then polish the tiles off with a damp, not wet, sponge followed by a dry cloth.

Last Step

Stand back and admire your job - it wasn"t hard was it?